South Africa: The Garden Route to Knysna 

At Hacking the Road, we are dedicated to finding ways to help people live a Better Life ... on the Road! We are full-time travelers and experience seekers, and we want to share our stories with you. We believe that travel opens hearts and minds, and makes the world a better place. Join us as we explore each new destination.

SOUTH AFRICA is located on the southernmost tip of the African continent. This Blog is part of a travel series covering the Road Hackers' three month visit to the Western Cape in 2022. 

The Garden Route to Knysna
The time had come to once again leave our cozy home base and head up the east coast. This extended trip took several days and covered some of the most picturesque natural vistas we'd seen on the road.

Our goal was to spend a few days making our way along the famed coastal Garden Route, and then to return via the increasingly popular Cape Route 62.

There are a number of ways to get to the Garden Route from Gordon's Bay, or from Cape Town for that matter. The N2 highway is no doubt the most efficient course. The road is in excellent condition and very well marked throughout. The actual Garden Route section of the N2 starts about 238 miles/384 km from Cape Town. We were starting in Gordon's Bay, so a little shorter for us.

The popular conception of the Garden Route starts in Mossel Bay and ends somewhere around Stormsriver, just beyond George and Knysna. In total, the route is about 124 miles/200 km of amazing coastal highway! We were planning to go as far as Knysna and the area called The Wilderness, located about 27miles/43km west.

The trip we'd planned should take anywhere from three to 15 days, depending on your interests, budget, and tendency to get distracted ... and there are so many captivating attractions along the way, even before you get to the Garden Route.

Our itinerary took six days, but, in hindsight, it would have been even more enjoyable over eight days. There were a number of locations that we'd love to revisit at some point in the future.

With Mauricio as our driver and tour guide, we set off from Gordon's Bay. Instead of taking the N2, we decided to stay on the coast to head towards the seaside town of Hermanus. The drive alone is worth the extra time of the detour. This coastal route (R44) is one of the big favorites of the local bike clubs on a Sunday. The road twists and turns, hugs the coast, and delivers spectacular views of the Atlantic at every curve.

Making the most of our Route 44 diversion, our first stop was at another biker favorite. We opt for coffee and a light breakfast at the Drummond Arms restaurant in the rustic town of Roos Els. Wild baboons frequent this rather remote area, and we saw a number of them roaming around the area. Signs caution customers not to share! And we most certainly heeded the warning...

As we continued on the R44, we saw a massive man-made tidal pool below us. We pulled off briefly to appreciate this beautiful addition to the ocean's majesty. Every bend in the road seemed to reveal another gem of a view!

Our next stop was at the Stony Point Nature Reserve next to Betty's Bay.  Stony Point has the third largest African penguin breeding colony in the world. Though we had already enjoyed the huge colony in Simon's Town, we were inquisitive to see this sanctuary as well. The Reserve has an extensive boardwalk that took us out to the colony, similar to The Boulders but on a somewhat smaller scale. A quick fix for our penguin withdrawals... 

The Stony Point Reserve is actually located right next to the old whaling station where they used to process whales in the early 1900s. You can still see the cement slipway in the reserve. Today, only the penguins and researchers use the ramp.

This natural setting is home to other wildlife as well. Dassies are quite prevalent, and many were scattered among the penguins. We also saw quite a variety of birds, including several types of Gull. Three different species of Cormorant breed in this area: Black-, Crowned-, and Cape Cormorant. The waters off the reserve had to be teeming with life, because there were huge kelp forests in multiple locations.

Travel next was to Kleinmond, a small fishing village just up the road. We pulled up to an area where the fishing boats launched. We noticed big concrete tables at the water's edge, used for processing the day's catch. The seas here can be really rough just beyond the slipway. When the big waves crash in, we wondered how the boats could get even make it beyond the protected area.

Time to head to our lunch destination and South Africa's whale watching capital--Hermanus. Thousands of tourists and nature lovers come here each year to watch for the ocean's giant creatures offshore. The World Wildlife Fund considers Hermanus as one of the 12-best whale watching locations in the world!

The Southern Right Whales come up from the Antarctic to mate and breed in the calm waters off Hermanus. The peak whale season starts in July and goes through December, with the Hermanus Whale Festival celebrated on the last weekend in September each year. 

It was a bit of a gray day, but the setting was brilliant as we drove up to one of the most popular look-out points above the quaint little fishing harbor. We scanned the waters with a glimmer of hope that we might catch an off-season sighting, but no such luck.

Instead, the stroll along the scenic coastal path rewarded us with an unexpected surprise: We encountered a one-of-a-kind outdoor art gallery. As we continued down the hillside, one after another unusual sculpture, rather substantial in size, was on display all along the way. 

With our appetites well-primed, it was time to find a restaurant with a great view and an appetizing cuisine. High above the harbor tucked off a little side street, we settled on The Harbor Rock Restaurant.  As we perused the menu, we looked out at the port from our well-chosen table.

We both decided on the Chicken Korma, which was seasoned with a mouth-watering Indonesian curry. The order was beautifully presented with a side of perfectly cooked rice, Greek yogurt, and a couple of small salads. To accompany the meal, we opted for an Appletiser, our favorite South African beverage. Magnifique!

With lunch behind us, we were ready to head inland up the R43 to Bot River to finally join up with the N2 highway. Once on the national road again, we started making up some of the time we'd lost sightseeing along the scenic R44. Just as we got rolling, we remembered that we would soon pass the famous Dassies Fontein road stop. Another shiny diversion to slow us down yet again!

Dassies Fontein is rather indescribable, and is better seen firsthand. Located in the middle of nowhere, people come from all over the country to check on what they've added to their eclectic collection of odds and ends. We couldn't just pass by, and had to stop for a quick perusal of its unparalleled array of goodies. 

Housed in an old farmhouse style building, Dassies Fontein can best be described as Route 66 meets general store, meets farm stall, meets hardware store, meets antique boutique, meets nursery. Rooms filled with garden equipment, braai (BBQ) tools, fruit & veg, and fire wood, lead to other rooms with baked goods, plants, unusual antiques, and home decor ... Get the picture? 

We made our way up and down the aisles, enjoying every unexpected trinket while trying not to linger too long. Before leaving, we decided to grab coffees for the road at their full-fledged sit-down restaurant.

Their menu of South African favorites, as well as the display of fresh-baked goods, looked pretty delicious. No, we just had a big lunch!! Pulling ourselves away from the temptations, we made a b-line for the car before we changed our minds...

As we were driving out, we discovered a giant wooden table and chairs, complete with flowers and a tablecloth, set up in the nearby field. A small herd of donkeys grazing in the grass off to the side of the jumbo dining room completed the scene. What an interesting place!

Next stop was Swellendam, about 76 miles/130 km away. Wheat fields covered the gently-rolling hills the whole way across to our destination--and beyond! The region around Swellendam is one of South Africa's biggest grain and canola oil producers.

Our target in this area was a particular restaurant we'd heard about from friends and family called Tredici. The Italian word literally means 13, and was purposely chosen for its meaning in baking culture--a baker's dozen. Conveniently just off the N2, Tredeci is an all-in-one patisserie, delicatessen, boulangerie, and Italian ristorante with an artistic flair. 

The layout of the restaurant was strategic. Walking in, you're instantly treated to the bakery displays. No coincidence here--a great way to wake up the appetite! We climbed the stairs to procure an empty table. The space was open and airy, with classic modern Italian touches. 

After perusing the menu, we quickly decided on a rustic vegetarian pizza to share, accompanied by decadent milkshakes. Following the tasty meal, we sampled two slices of cake--one chocolate and one carrot. The pieces were huge and rich, so we were glad we stopped at two to share! The pleasure of eating is also visual, and the presentation matched the delight of our taste buds.

Back on the N2, we set our sights on the farming community of Riversdale, about 54 miles/91 km away. A few miles outside of Swellendam just off the N2 was another of those must-see spots unique to South Africa: the Oude Post Bistro. And since it was a must-see, it meant we must see! While the destination is the final goal, enjoying the journey to get there is half the fun of travel.

People come from far and wide to the Oude Post Bistro to try their Roosterkoek! And just what is a Roosterkoek, you might ask? (We did!) The direct translation from Afrikaans is Grill Cake. But this is by no means cake. A more accurate description is mouth-watering dough freshly baked on the grill.

Preparing the roosterkoek from dough to cooked finished product is quite a process. An outdoor kitchen was set up outside in a nook especially reserved for this operation. We were fascinated to watch the baker as she worked through each step with practiced precision. First she kneaded and shaped the dough into round balls of uniform size, adding just the right amount of flour for the perfect consistency. 

Next the balls were stretched into a more flattened shape and laid on the grill. In between tending to the dough, the baker also had to add coals to the grill, keeping the fire stoked to make sure it was at an even heat for proper cooking. That's a lot to juggle and keep going successfully!

Once on the grill, the Roosterkoeks couldn't linger long on the intense heat. There was a constant checking for doneness on one side, then a flipping to finish on the other. The baker maintained an orchestrated dance of producing a perfect end result of freshly-baked goodness! 

Load after load of Roosterkoeks made their way over to the retail counter. As they arrived, people were already lined up for the next round. They serve so many customers each day, they keep track of their sales and post the stats. The winning record currently stood at 2,091 sold on one Sunday in September! 

The warm breads are opened like pita pockets and filled with whatever combination of items listed on the big menu board. Still full after our Tredici feast, we forced ourselves to settle on sharing a standard bacon, egg, and cheese. Not that we need something more to eat, but after watching the whole cooking process, we just had to sample one for ourselves! We did order several more plain Roosterkoeks to take with us for consumption later... whenever we might be hungry again, though not any time soon!

Oude Post Bistro also housed a sweet petting zoo in a lush and grassy fenced-in field across the parking lot. Mountain tortoises, deer, and plenty of noisy goats coexisted quite peacefully! Most retreated to their covered shelters when a light rain began to fall. Except for the tortoises, of course, who were more than happy to enjoy nature's shower... What a great don't-miss-it stop!

Continuing up the N2 past Heidelberg, we picked up the pace as we headed to Riversdale. Rainman's cousins, Gerhard and Betty, had graciously invited us to spend the weekend on their farm. It was over 50 years since he had been there as a child, when he had spent quite a bit of time in the area. This was an exciting re-visit!

Closer to Riversdale, we saw several deer and ostrich farms. Ostrich farming has some history in the area, but deer farming is growing in popularity with the health-conscious community. Domesticated deer farming allows farmers to get production from smaller, more marginal tracts of land. Deer eat less, grow faster, and are capable of breeding for a longer period than cattle. Like ostrich, deer meat is quite lean and high in protein.

Riversdale has a proud long history of farming. Today, the area is known primarily for growing wheat, wild flowers, thatching reeds, and honey bush used for tea, as well as raising sheep and cattle. Their fynbos flowers are legendary in the winter months.

The base of the Langeberg Mountains came into view as we reached Riversdale. The iconic Sleeping Beauty Mountain peak stands as a guardian for all travelers to the area. In Riversdale, we left the smooth N2 highway and took a well-used dirt road south toward the coast. 

Our cousins focus mainly on grain production, but also farm sheep, ostrich, and thatching reeds--depending on the rains in any given season. More recently, an interesting strategy has emerged for their sheep farming.

Entrepreneurs are willing to provide starter sheep herds for smaller farms for a season of breeding. It's a win-win for the entrepreneur and for the farmer. The entrepreneur gets their original herd back at the end of the season, plus a guaranteed number of off-spring.

The farmer, if successful, retains the excess herd after breeding, and gets to sell the fattened lambs at the going market rate. Some farmers use this process to build their own long-term herds. Gerhard and Betty currently have a herd of about 300 sheep and are using the rentalnherds to grow to a base goal of 1,500 sheep over the next several years.

As we drove up to the farmhouse, we were greeted by our cousins and immediately felt welcome. The farmhouse is straight out of an episode of Little House on the Prairie--a classic farmhouse, but with modern WiFi and Netflix! Soon, Jane, Rochelle and her daughter Leigha arrived to join us at the farm for the weekend.

That first evening was spent catching up and participating in the many braai (BBQ) rituals that are a staple in South Africa. We had three different kinds of meat that night--lamb, beef, and venison. The hit of the braai had to be the tasty beef-and-venison sausage cooked to perfection on the open coal fire pit. We didn't forget to add the Roosterkoeks to the festivities.

The next day was spent revisiting all the old favorite spots on the surrounding farms. We even went on a ride-along as our cousin tended to the sheep, with his two-year old grandson lending a very sweet helping hand.

Another of our cousins, Reinhard, invited us for a sundowner at his personal favorite spot on his neighboring farm. It turns out that this special lookout was deep into the fynbos. The only way to get there was by rugged 4 x 4 vehicles!

About ten adults and two small children piled into the cabs and beds of the trucks, or baakies as they're called in South Africa. We squirreled in next to the coolers, blankets, and gear packed for the excursion. The journey was a fun and bumpy ride as we trekked along the barely visible vehicle tracks up the mountain.

Arriving at his lookout, we found ourselves high up on a ridge overlooking the valley between the farming community and the town of Riversdale. In the distance, we could see the pronounced outline of Sleeping Beauty Mountain.

We laid out blankets, and were presented with sundowner drinks with fresh berries, as we witnessed the majesty of the sunset. As planned, we were there at the perfect time as the sun slowly drifted down to the horizon. The colors, and the panoramic views, were breathtaking! 

Reinhard often comes up to this lookout with close friends or by himself. He feels strongly that places like this need to be preserved in their natural state. We could see why he was so passionately committed to preservation. It was indeed a special place, and one he is fortunate to steward. We felt lucky to have been invited to such an exceptional slice of heaven.

Back at the farmhouse, we once again started the braai ritual, this time a much bigger and longer Saturday night version! This braai even included a delicious pooitjie. 

A pooitjie is a three-legged caste iron bush pot used to cook for hours over a fire. The pooitjie was filled with freshly-slaughtered lamb, potatoes, carrots, onions, and all kinds of other vegetables. The slow-cook high heat breaks everything down into a very tasty stew-like mix. We loved it!

After a good night's rest, we drove to the small fishing village and resort town of Still Bay, or Stillbaai to locals. Rainman and his siblings spent many childhood summers here, so they relived some bygone memories as we walked along the quaint harbor overlooking the bay. It was only fitting to have an ice cream in honor of these recollections!

Still Bay originally started out as a favorite fishing spot for the farmers in the area, who also used it as their summer vacation destination. In some ways, it was a closely guarded secret. But that secret is out! Still Bay has now become a major holiday attraction in the summers.

Officially part of the Cape Whale Route, visitors flock to this small town in the winter to see the whales breeding in the bay. The best viewing area is from the high point just above the harbor.

Still Bay has a long white sandy beach that stretches all the way to the Gokou River estuary. Water sports, such as wind surfing, kite surfing, kayaking, and waterskiing, are popular in the lagoon near the entrance to the ocean. Rainman recalled memories when he and his siblings flew down the steep hill leading to the beach on cardboard sleds.

It was time to all go our separate ways--some back to the farm, some to Gordon's Bay, and we and Mauricio to continue our journey and head on to the Garden Route. It was a fantastic weekend, filled with recalling old memories and making new. We said our grateful thanks, with a promise to see each other again sooner rather than later.

Back on the N2, we set the GPS for Mossel Bay, about 50 miles/85 km further along. The official Garden Route actually starts there, but in our opinion the Garden Route starts from Swellendam and the beach communities near Riversdale.

Mossel Bay is another of the many South African whale watching centers in the winter months. Interestingly, the village was the original postal exchange location for sailors traveling from Europe to the East Indies. Sailors would deposit letters to their loved ones back home in a designated receptacle for pick-up by sailors enroute back to Europe. Today, the location is called "The Post Office."

Also located in Mossel Bay, the Dias Museum Complex marks one of the few locations where Bartolomeu Dias set foot in Southern Africa in 1488. A replica of his ship, The Caravel, can be seen in the complex. The Caravel was the first European ship to circumnavigate the tip of Africa!

Mossel Bay has the only north-facing beach in South Africa. With a well-developed docking area, it has become quite a hot spot for all kinds of sea-faring excursions. Whale watching, wreck-diving trips, shark-cage experiences, and deep-sea fishing have become big business for the area. 

Unfortunately, our aggressive Garden Route itinerary did not allow us much time in Mossel Bay. An overnight here would have been ideal.

From Mossel Bay, we set our sights on getting to George for the night, driving about another 24 miles/38 km. On our way using the coast-hugging N2, we passed two more beautiful small sea-side towns, Klein Brak River and Groot Brak River.

The eco-systems around these Brak River communities are perfect for viewing a rich diversity of birds and sea life. There is no doubt now that we are on the Garden Route! The unspoiled and natural beauty of the area needs to be driven to be truly experienced and appreciated

Just before George, we pass Herold's Bay, essentially a small rocky cove carved out of the shoreline by millennia of coastal erosion. There's very little doubt why golfer Ernie Els has his collection of golf courses between here and George. The Outbaai Golf Estate course has been rated as one of the most beautifully designed golfing locations in the world!

George is nestled in the lowlands below the magnificent Outeniqua Mountains. This picturesque setting is a great base for exploring the best parts of the Garden Route. They have a well-developed airport, plenty of good hotels, conference facilities, and great access to about 10 world-class golf courses.

Exhausted, we settle in for a well-deserved rest at an AirBnB, and begin planning our big drive through the Wilderness area over to Knysna. The next morning, after a hearty breakfast, we set off for one of the most naturally spectacular drives we've ever seen.

The area starts with a small coastal town called Wilderness, about 10 km from George, and extends all the way to Sedgefield, with a total of 13 spectacular miles/ 24 km.

The Wilderness area has a lagoon ecosystem, tons of wildlife, a stunning coastal highway, natural beaches that go on forever, forests, lakes, and dramatic mountains. The Goukamma Nature Reserve, with its five lakes, is adjacent to the Wilderness. There's no doubt, if you love nature, you will love this drive!

For those who really want to immerse themselves in the area, the Wilderness has tremendous outdoor adventure opportunities, such as hiking, camping, para-gliding, bird watching, whale watching, horse riding, fishing, and kayaking. Which one you choose all depends on how close you want to get to nature.

Still awed by the wondrous Wilderness drive, we entered the small seaside town of Buffalo Bay, located less than 10 km before Knysna. This village juts out into the ocean on a small peninsula. Buffalo Bay, or Buffelsbaii to locals, is almost surrounded by ocean, with a beautiful sandy beach on one side and a very rugged rocky flank on the other.

Campers and RVs were crammed into every available space. According to locals, pensioners (or retirees) love to spend the cheap off-season at this location. With its dramatic and striking setting, who can blame them?

When the Garden Route is mentioned, most South Africans immediately suggest a visit to Knysna, also known as The Jewel of the Garden Route. Knysna, here we come! 

Knysna has been widely recognized for its popular vibe, having been voted "Town of the Year" several times, and rated one of the Top 100 destinations in the world by Trip Advisor. The town is built along the shores of the Knysna Lagoon--which isn't actually a classic lagoon, but rather an estuary. 

The large waterway narrows between two dramatic landmasses as it meets the Indian Ocean at The Heads. The natural scenery at this point, as seen from the water or from the land, is quite breathtaking.

The marina at the waterfront is the perfect place to hang out when you leave the water. They have great restaurants, art galleries, antique shops, arts & crafts shops, and plenty of hotels. Knysna also has tremendous water sports opportunities, like para-sailing, kayaking, boating, fishing, and lagoon charters.

Knysna is a big draw with artists from a variety of backgrounds. Public art is important here, and the galleries are filled with an eclectic mix of talent.

The town is actually a major center for furniture crafters. Knysna is surrounded by evergreen trees, and the timber from these forests became an important feature to the local economy. The artisan furniture industry is a big attraction for art collectors and for people just looking for that special piece they can't find anywhere else.

UNIONDALE
Time to leave Knysna behind and head inland for an entirely different experience. We headed up Route 339 in the direction of Uniondale. 

Jane and Mauricio have life-long friends who live close to Uniondale, who were very gracious and invited us to stay the night in their very interesting off-the-grid home. The invitation was a unique opportunity to get a peek into rural life in the Little Karoo.

Although Uniondale is only about 54 miles/86 km) from the ocean and the luscious Garden Route, it is still classified as part of the semi-arid Little Karoo zone. But Uniondale is by no means arid, with an abundance of green flora, droves of bird species, and plentiful diverse fauna.

As we drove up the rugged dirt road to our hosts' home, we knew immediately that they meant OFF THE GRID! Somehow they had carved out a special place to call home close to a UNESCO-recognized Biosphere.

Our hosts greeted us with genuine warmth, with the kind of sincerity that only comes from years of appreciating the struggles of natural survival. 

The orientation to their home was fascinating. They had carefully adapted to their surroundings and natural resources with a solar system that satisfied their electrical needs; a rain-collection and storage operation that took care of their water needs; and a wrap-around observation deck that gave them a front-row seat on their natural setting.

A short walk across the way from their home, our hosts also help to run the local pub called the Kbuku Pub & Grill. Sitting out at the back tables, patrons are treated to a peaceful and picturesque setting for socializing.

It was great to relax and have a refreshing beverage after our travels. It turned out to be the perfect place for us to connect with this intimate community. Inside, the locals were conversing in a caring and neighborly way. As most small towns can boast, all knew each other well. And the pub's decor was interesting and eclectic! 

Back to the homestead, we were served drinks from the cool replica of a real bar our hosts had built on one side of their living room. Though they had chosen to live off grid, they had also made sure to enjoy some creature comforts!

Next we were treated to a delicious homemade meal of tender lamb cooked in a rich tomato sauce, served over rice or mashed potato. We then retired to the deck and watched the sun going down. The nearby Kamanassie and Kouga Mountains were spectacular in that lighting! As the darkness set in, the sky above us filled with stars. The lack of light pollution provided a view rivaled only by a planetarium.

According to the locals we met at the pub, bird watching is a must! Members from one of the Garden Route birding clubs recently spent five days cataloguing the birds in the Uniondale area. They were performing a census for the SABAP2 Atlas Project. The group reported 150 bird species over the period, including a rare sighting of a Red Phalarope.

Perhaps the most interesting story we were told was about the Uniondale Ghost. Multiple experiences have been reported of a mysterious young female hitchhiker in the area. According to these reports, the traveler disappears once she secures a ride.  The hitcher has been traced to a young woman killed in a car accident back in 1968. The legend has grown over the years...

But the most unsettling story came from our hosts toward the end of the evening. So the story goes, they had a close-up encounter with a Cape Cobra in the house. After an initial sighting in the kitchen, the Cobra disappeared for a whole week before being spotted again, and removed. They have since procured some snake-grabbing gear to relocate any future intruders. We checked under the bed that night just to be safe!

After a very early breakfast the next morning, we bid our new friends farewell.

Up Next: Our quest to find SOUTH AFRICA'S HISTORIC ROUTE 62